Guest Fred Karno's Army Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Speechless mate,absolutely fantastic.....not into cars but that is stunning mate,really . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davejb Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I have to agree with old Fred, fantastic bit of modelling and painting, and your not the first one to have trouble with metal primer, I,m firmly convinced that metal primer needs an undercoat of a different primer before applying, I had the same trouble when applying metal primer to the metal engine of my 1/16th Tiger tank. I ended up taking the flaking parts off, sanding down and using an ordinary white primer then finishing off with metal primer and gentle buffing, it produced the effects I was looking for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Tank you @Fred Karno's Army! @Davejb,many thanks for your kind words,mate,if you have problems with metal primer give Vallejo's a go or use Halford's automotive etching primer! Gonna post more of my build today! Cheers Manu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 The aluminum tub is finally done, with all the PE bits super-glued to it!I forgot I had several cans of Gunze Mr. Metal Primer in one of my closets and used that to seal the bare metal.This product's great but must be used with fast light passes else it would go on too heavily,and being some sort of resin it would easily cover the small details!I've made this mistake myself and had to soak the trub in Gunze Organic Thinner to remove the varnish and start over again. The contrast between the aluminum tub and the nickel-plated PE parts is still too stark and unrealistic anyway,therefore I'll treat this assembly as it was made of styrene and paint it with Alclads and Gunze Super Metallics,the latter being definitely more resistant to repeated handling than the former. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 A little update.I've given the tub a coat of Gunze Supermetallic Aluminum,followed by a coat of Gunze Supermister Supermetallic Superfine Supersilver.I'll let it cure thoroughly and in the next days I'll highligh the centers of the panels with Alclad Polished Aluminum and paint gussets and reinforcement panels with different metallic shades or mist them with Alclad transparent medium with a drop of smoke or transparent yellow.A little dry-brushing with some printer's ink will highligh the edges while washes will add depth.The finish is not grainy like it appears in the pictures,blame it to my photographic skills...or lack thereof! While the "painting mode" was on I have given the engine block a first coat of Alclad Pale Burnt Metal and I've painted the transmission Alclad Pale Gold.Tomorrow I'll tone down the engine block with several shades of steel and aluminum while I'll tone down the gawdy golden finish of the transmission with Alclad Pale Burnt Metal to simulate the typical "Champagne" hue of the actual castings. A lot still has to be added but it's starting to look interesting IMO,and I'm having a real great time with this kit to boot,which is a bonus! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 These kits look gorgeous even OOB but there's always room for that little "touch" here and there.For examnple the PE mesh for the radator isn't too convincing IMO,therefore I've discarded the kit's PE parts and used Hobby Design's Radiator Mesh (HD 02-0180), which is spot-on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 A lot of masking for a thirty-secs paintiNg job.I've painted the steel gussets Alclad Stainless Steel to start adding different dashes of colour here and there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Last night I've mixed some very-low curing clear epoxy resin,adding a few drops of Tangerine and lemon inks trying to get one of the yellowish shades of fiberglass used by Ferrari SEFAC. This resin has a very long pot life but after it's been mixed it must be left alone thirty-to-fortyfive minutes to degas....I regret selling my vacuum pump! As my friend Murphy would have had it,both "trays" came out of the molds with a much annoying air bubble,therefore I've mixed more resin,hoping not to have more nasty surprises tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 I've added the first washes,picked a few details (lotsa masking involved!) and all in all I think that it's turning out OK!I've added a few pieces of BMF on the filling port of the nearside tank as it was often done to prevent accidental unscrewing of the cap!These kits are addictive...no burn out to speak of even working on it ten hours a day!It's the most enjoyable modelling experience I've ever had...PERIOD!With cables,wires,pipes,battery,oil filter and stuff I'm sure that it'll become to look busy enough to raise a little interest!Thank you for stopping,watching and commenting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 A few fitting trials with more details added or painted.I've discovered why on many a MFH "Hybrid" 312T4 there's a gap between the upper and the lolwer bodies;it all boils down to the front magnets locating sockets and to the slight warpage of the lower halves of the air conduits.Firmly securing the tub to the lower body and doing the same with the side oil and water radiators will solve the problem!The front wheels center locks have been left in firearms blueing solution trying to achieve the desired resluts as far as finish is concerbed and wear and tear will be added later on! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 A little update on the engine....I realized too late that I had put the decal of the UFI oil filter the other way 'round! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 I've tried to "weather" the monocoque a bit with a mix of MIG pigments diluted in alcohol and airbrushed ALL OVER the tub until it looked like a Stealth Bomber.The dust has been removed patiently with a wide,soft brush letting some in the crevices and rivets.In this case less is more and a "neutral" medium oughta be used in order not to damage the mists of Alclad Airframe Aluminum.The base coat of Gunze Mr. Super-Metallic-San is very hard and durable,not so the Alclads! DON'T EVEN THINK TO USE TAMIYA SMOKE as I did in the first place,even diluted,because when you'll remove the excess an invisible film will remain un the surface that will "catalize" the pigments in blotches on the flat surfaces and around raised details (that would be a pro if they only wouldn't be 1mm thick!) and in order to remove them you'll have to use a brush dipped in Windex...ask me how I know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 The kit's shock absorber were terribly cast,therefore I've scratchbuilt new ones and cast them in resin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 I'm currently assembling the transmission and here's one of the disc/caliper/scoop assemblies covered with brake "dust" as will be the rest of the parts exposed to oil,water and dirt;my car will be an "after race" one!The picture doesn't do the "dusting" any justice,though.To produce a perfectly matt surface and fix the pigment without "washing" them away or make them look satin is a lenghty and boring job but the result are very satisfying! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 The tranny is completely assembled now,I've covered the micro Phillips screws with PE nuts soacked in firearms blueing solution and added a 0,6mm tube on the rear wich isnt mentioned in the instructions....bought a few yards of this tube off eBay from a Chinese seller for US$3 INCLUDING shipping! I've started adding the brake dust and other dirt which accumulate during a race,it's dust and it may look overdone from the pictures but it looks ok to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Some progress on the engine,sorry for the terrible pictures.The more I build this kit the more I love F1 car modelling.I'd have felt sick working around the clock on another tank or AC but I've found that working on cars is another story altogether...the more I work on it the more I can't wait to start another one...a 126CK perhaps! The fuel lines drive me crazy;years of long-range rifle shooting with 40x/50x scopes has taken its toll on my right retina and after a while I can't see properly anymore,I don't use optivisors even if I think I should! To duplicate dust and grime I mix one part MIG Black pigment with two parts MIG Light Dust,ten drops of Gunze Acrylic matt varnish (to help the mix stay put even if it gets scratched by something) and thin the mix with 60 to 70 drops of Tamiya Acrylic Thinner.I mist several layers with my Olympos HP100B with a 0,2mm nozzle at 10/15 psi.When I'm satisfied I take a look at what I've done and if it's overdone or if I need to wipe some areas clean,like the brake discs in this paticular case,a soft flat brush moisted with Tamiya Acrylic thinner will take care of that,for highlighs drybrushing with a stiffer brush will do the trick.When I'm finally pleased with the results I fix the dust and grime with some pastel/chalk fixative misted with the airbrush;I NEVER use it straight from the can!I lightly mist it at 15 PSI from about 6".To add scratches or to remove the dirt from edges and such the same flat brush and more Tamiya thinner will help you achieve the results you're after...simple and (hopefully!) effective! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 The engine's nearing completion...getting close yet still no cigar!I don't know,perhaps it's me,having spent a long time around the real cars there's something that just doesn't look correct---I'll soon find that out anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 The new shock absorber(s)...it's been worth my while scratchbuilding a new unit to be cast in resin rather than trying to turn a misaligned,bent and oval thing into a straight,round one!Further,my shock absorber has compression and return (no adjustable,of course LOL!),thereore it'll be easier to mount them even after the whole transmission has been assembled...just "click them into place! The red springs may not be 100% accurate (I've seen them on "Clienti" cars while the ones used on the race cars were mainly black with paint dots to identify weights and ratios) but I like the idea of adding a dash of colour! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davejb Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 To be totally honest I think if you were to just post these pictures up without reference background of scale , people would think they were looking at the real thing, your meticulous attention to detail is quite staggering. I would dearly like you to consider entering this build into a modelling competition , and I would say there,s every chance of receiving high marks or even top awards. Your modelling ability and skill is, in my opinion, a cut above the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mav352 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Looks fantastic @Manu Della Valle looking forward to seeing the finished car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Thank you @Mav352! @Davejb...you're too kind,mate! Cheers Manu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 Random progress! The decal on the fire extinguisher has come out particularly nice IMO.It's been laid on with the help of Micro Set and Sol and after it had cured I gave the whole thing a few wet coats of Gunze Acrylic Clear Coat Gloss (501) decanted and heavily diluted with Gunze Levelling Thinner...it goes on like a dream but it'll take a few hours before it'll be immune to fingerprints...ask me how I know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 The rear wall of these cars was covered with a layer of 1cm thick self-adesive sound/heat insulating foam (no asbestos) covered with aluminum,just like I had on my road-going 512BB and 328GTB,nothing "fancy" that only goes to prove that a few products were used on Racing and production cars alike!Many "Clienti" cars and the ones still in Maranello now have to make do with a newer product,since the original insulating foam isn't produced anymore. Very often it was secured with rivets to prevent the drag forces to tear it in pieces or tear it off altogether!In my pictures it looks like a chase-grater thanks to my photographich skills (or lack thereof) and the ever-present flash,but trust me when I say that it's to scale ! It's not a difficult detail to replicate;just take a piece of household aluminum,put it on a sheet of sandpaper (coarseness according to scale!) and pass the back of your nail on it as if you were playing your guitar.On the real thing there was a mix of "negative" and "positive" dimples,I've had to make do with only "positive" in that I needed a much surface for the foiling glue as possible!A word of advice;DON'T WEATHER the panel with "aggressive" washes because you may not see them but there are thousands of tiny holes all over the surface and the solvents) seeping through them may affect the foiling glue! As a side note it helps hiding the unsightly gap between the tub and the rear wall! Don't be too fussy with precise cuts because these panels were cut to shape when needed from rolls of material...I still have one piece somewhere and I'll post a picture or two as reference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 The cluster with the toggle switches and the buttons on the port side of the front roll-over cage.As far as the labelling is concerned I've taken a shortcut and instead of trying to make micro "dymo" stickers I've put to good use some stencils from a 1/72 Czech Air Force Mig 21! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manu Della Valle Posted June 25, 2016 Author Share Posted June 25, 2016 I've attached the engine to the monocoque with its passing screw and I've glued the transmission to the engine block.When I fitted the rear wheels little did I know that I was in for a NASTY surprise;the screws were too long and they made the rear wheels wobble in all directions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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