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  1. csmagdo

    csmagdo

    Cadet


    • Points

      7

    • Posts

      8


  2. val

    val

    Warrant Officer 3rd Class


    • Points

      4

    • Posts

      2,643


  3. Telegraphentruppe

    Telegraphentruppe

    Private


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      13


  4. Steve T

    Steve T

    Warrant Officer 1st Class


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      526


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 31/10/18 in all areas

  1. Hopefully next year.
    2 points
  2. Well, not. Will be an A4, 150+ pages professional color print for a reasonable price. I have to get back at least a part of the thousands of Euros "killed" into my collection. The time spent on research is given back by the presentations I hold for the future generation. Csaba
    2 points
  3. I am registered, but only for 2 weeks or so. @val: what list would you like to see? I don't get it very clear... Early ones? Rare makers? Else? Some special FF33 specimen will be presented in my upcoming book. For today here is an FF33 made by Siemens in 1962/63: Regards: Csaba
    2 points
  4. Hello Ian, I can only confirm what Albert und Val said. Only one word about the price. It`s like Val wrote some maker were rare (and expensive) in opposite to others) But normal used common maker FF 33 will be sold in germany from 50€ upside and the shipping costs to UK were around 20€. So I will say for 100€ plus shipping you will get a nice piece. 200 is more then expensive.. Best regards from germany Roger
    2 points
  5. Hi, Can we make a list of rare FF33 versions by year and manufacturer?
    1 point
  6. Hi all! A good friend of mine sent me this 1970's era full size non firing (Japan) P 08. Its missing some parts, I would like to get enough of the parts to make it look whole again, just for a holster stuffer. Side plate and trigger mostly, the pins I can fabricate . I did the google and E Bay thing with out success, and original parts could probably be made to fit, but 'm not forking out that kinda dough for a toy.lol Any help would be most appreciated! Cheers!
    1 point
  7. Ok, when the book will be out?
    1 point
  8. This would be a free book in pdf format, right?
    1 point
  9. Well, regarding manufacturer, we can say TW and Hauser are the rarest. I have them both, but @Alperator's pieces are in better shape. So I let him this line. The Austrian made ones are also not seen often: VTT, Eumig and Schrack Ericsson (bVX). As for the year, the early ones are rarer, since fewer pieces were made. From 1934 I've seen Siemens, DTW, C. Lorenz, N&K and VBT. More makers entered in 1935 (M&G, SAF): Rare pieces are the Kriegsmarine versions (all SA) -especially the early ones from 1938-, and the ones marked as made for the Luftwaffe (SAF and SF) with BAL marks instead of WaA: And, rare pieces are the ones made (and marked) in '45. More to come [in the book ;)] Csaba
    1 point
  10. Many people think that relic condition WW2 artefacts aren't worth saving or collecting. I thought I'd show you what you can do with even the most rust filled, banged up and dirty relic. A week or two ago I acquired a relic PIAT bomb. Well, it has now been de-rusted and cleaned. I used strong phosphoric acid solution dabbed on the rust on the painted areas (45%), leaving for 10 minutes then rinsing off. I repeated this a few times until I noticed the paint start to flake so stopped, but I had already removed quite a bit of rust. The front cone had a couple of major dings in it so I took it round a friend's house to see if we could pry the two cones apart. My friend advised against this, instead suggesting I fill the cone with water and bung it in the freezer to get the ice to push out the dings. This worked very well, but on the third pass through the freezer, the dings were pushed out further but the cones were pushed apart!! Minor disaster! However, it turned out to be a blessing as I could then use the old 'Smack it wiv a hammer!' technique to flatten the dings out. I then got a 2 litre plastic bottle, made up an 8% phosphoric acid solution, placed the PIAT in the bottle and poured the phosphoric acid solution up to where the paint was still intact. Left for 24 hours, rinsed, neutralised, rinsed again, scrubbed with a Brillo pad, dried. I then gave the painted areas a protective coat of wax and placed a practice No 426 fuze in the nose to finish it all off. It has come out rather nice, don't you think? :) You can just make out the word 'INERT' on the body. Oh, and it just goes to show, you're never too smart to get, and TAKE, good advice off people! Not only that, but even rusty relics can be turned into excellent, clean, corrosion free, display pieces. Pictures below show before and after shots. #
    1 point
  11. While @csmagdo arrives, little sneak peak to his rare 1934 Siemens. https://rainstorm.org/~celtic/WAF/SA1934/
    1 point
  12. Hello Val & Roger, Thanks for your knowledge and kind assistance. The guy wont drop the price at all £200 + £25 Postage So I will leave it considering your advice. Many Thanks & Best to you Both Desert Rat/ Ian
    1 point
  13. Thanks Chaps, By the way this particular second class Iron Cross was manufactured by Deumer, these Schinkel form 2nd class Iron Crosses are the most common version. D
    1 point
  14. I’ve had a go at MeWe. Will still be checking in here often though. Move new items coming in November,so will have a picture drive then
    1 point
  15. Greetings All, the German Manual I purchased is entitled, “Nachrichten-verbindungsdienst” by Herbert Meyer. I don’t see a printed date. It cost RM 1,40 originally. The manual appears to be published Pre War as all the pictures of soldiers seem to be in WWI model helmets. It is filled with great diagram examples of the correct and incorrect way of doing things. I haven’t found the radio procedures I am seeking yet, but it is early days. Stay Safe, Schorch.
    1 point
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